Kawabata’s World: Locations in Japan to visit as written by Kawabata Yasunari

Kawabata Yasunari (川端康成), a prominent figure in modern Japanese literature spanning from the Taisho Era (1912–1926) to the post-war period, clinched the distinction of being the first Japanese person to have won the Nobel Prize in Literature for his remarkable ability to capture the quintessence of the Japanese spirit with unparalleled sensitivity, leaving a profound impact on audiences worldwide. Among his renowned works are novels such as Izu no Odoriko (伊豆の踊子) and Yukiguni (雪国), which have cemented his legacy in the Japanese literary world.

Who is Kawabata Yasunari?

Kawabata Yasunari, the award-winning writer that has captivated the hearts of many readers through his sensuous and timeless masterpieces. (Image credit: Wikipedia)

Born in Osaka (大阪) in 1899, Kawabata lost his parents at the tender age of three and was later raised by his grandparents in Ibaraki City (茨木市). However, at the age of 15, he found himself orphaned once again following their passing. This early experience of bereavement deeply influenced his later literary works, evident in themes of solitude and a preoccupation with mortality. It was through literature and the appreciation of beauty that he sought solace from his loneliness, and yet the absence of strong familial connections left a lasting imprint on his writing. 

Following his education at Ibaraki Junior High School, Kawabata went on to pursue his literary aspirations in Tokyo (東京), where he made his debut in the literary world with his semi-autobiographical masterpiece Izu no Odoriko in 1926.

Now, let’s embark on a journey into the melancholic world of Kawabata Yasunari through the iconic locations that serve as the backdrop for his narratives, delving into the haunting beauty of his literary landscapes.

Yukiguni – Niigata (新潟)

Echigo Yuzawa, the stage of Kawabata’s most famous work, Yukiguni, featuring one of Japan’s snowiest regions. (Image credit: PhotoAC)

Opening with the iconic line, "The train emerged from a long tunnel into the snow country", Kawabata's internationally acclaimed masterpiece Yukiguni (雪国 Snow Country) unfolds in the wintry realm of Yuzawa (湯沢), a town nestled in Niigata Prefecture (新潟県). 

During the creation of this novel, Kawabata made five visits to Yuzawa, one of which led to his encounter with a geisha who would later inspire the character Komako in his narrative. Working as a geisha in the hot springs resort of the snow country to support her fiancé's medical expenses, Komako’s path intersects with Shimamura, a man leading a languid existence with a family in Tokyo. Despite their mutual attraction, their divergent fates compel them to part ways in the end.

Takahan Hotel 

Yukiguni no Yado Takahan in Yuzawa, Niigata. (Image credit: あばさー)

In Yuzawa, one can step into the world of Yukiguni beginning at the Takahan Hotel (雪国の宿 高半). Although the hotel itself has undergone reconstruction, the Kasumi no Ma (かすみの間) room, where Kawabata crafted his masterpiece, has been preserved as an exhibition space. From the vantage point of this room, visitors can gaze upon the same landscape that Shimamura and Komako once beheld through Kawabata's eyes. Through delicate descriptions of the mountains, sky hues, and atmosphere visible from the hotel room window, Kawabata artfully portrays the deeply stirred emotions of the characters while inviting readers to interpret these elements freely.

Suwa Shrine

Another notable location in the novel visited by Shimamura and Komako is Suwa Shrine (諏訪社), nestled within the cedar forest downhill from the Takahan Hotel. Here, Komako grapples with Shimamura's sincere emotions, yet her own circumstances prevent her from easily reciprocating his feelings. 

Despite the transformation of the town into a bustling tourist destination, the serene ambiance and fresh air lingering in the view overlooking the streets of Yuzawa Town continues to evoke memories of the contemplative Komako who once stood there. This tranquil setting allows one to revisit the poignant moment of unrequited longing, capturing the essence of their bittersweet encounter.

Takahan Hotel (雪国の宿 高半)
Address: 923 Yuzawa, Minamiuonuma District, Niigata 949-6101
Access: Take a bus from Yuzawa Station (湯沢駅) and alight at Yunosawa-iriguchi (湯之沢入り口) bus stop. From there, it is a 12-minute walk to the hotel. 

Izu no Odoriko – Izu Peninsula (伊豆半島)

Amagi Pass, an iconic location that appears at the beginning of Izu no Odoriko. (Image credit: PhotoAC)

In the autumn of 1918, a 20-year-old Kawabata embarked on his inaugural journey to the Izu Peninsula (伊豆半島). At Amagi Pass (天城峠), a location featured at the outset of his novel Izu no Odoriko (伊豆の踊子 The Dancing Girl of Izu), he encountered a troupe of traveling performers, including the dancer which his character in the novel was modeled after. 

Yumotokan

Yumotokan is located in the heart of Yugashima, Izu City, accessible by bus from Shuzenji Station. (Image credit: photoAC)

During his sojourn in Izu, he stayed at Yumotokan (湯本館), a hot spring inn nestled in Yugashima (湯ヶ島), a place so dear to his heart that he likened it to his second home. Following this initial visit, Kawabata developed a deep affinity for Yugashima, returning repeatedly for extended stays. By the summer of 1922, he had penned a 107-page draft titled "Memories of Yugashima” (湯ヶ島での思い出), serving as a precursor to his later work, Izu no Odoriko.

Nestled alongside the tranquil Kano River (狩野川), the inn retains its timeless allure, including the very room where Kawabata once resided, affectionately known as "Kawabata-san” (川端さん). This room has been meticulously preserved, capturing the same ambiance that permeated during his stay. Yumotokan's lobby resembles a living memorial, adorned with paintings and artifacts associated with Izu no Odoriko, serving as a testament to Kawabata's enduring legacy.

Joren Falls

Statues of a man and woman based on the characters of Izu no Odoriko, welcoming visitors at the entrance of Joren Falls. (Image credit: PhotoAC)

Merely a short 20-minute bus journey south of the inn lies another picturesque location that served as inspiration for the novel. Joren Falls (浄蓮の滝), named after the nearby Jorenji Temple (浄蓮寺), and known as one of Japan's top 100 falls, welcomes visitors with two statues depicting a man and woman, directly inspired by the characters from Kawabata's celebrated novel. Here, visitors can admire the falls alongside the statues before getting on the trail that brings to mind Kawabata’s own journey to Izu. 

Yumotokan (湯本館)
Address: 1656-1 Yugashima, Izu, Shizuoka 410-3206
Access: Take a bus from Shuzenji Station (修善寺駅) and alight at Yugashima (湯ヶ島) bus stop. From there, it is a 15-minute walk to the inn. 

Joren Falls (浄蓮の滝)
Address: 892-14 Yugashima, Izu, Shizuoka 410-3206
Access:  From Shuzenji Station (修善寺駅), take a bus bound for either Kawazu Station (河津駅)or Showa-no-Mori Kaikan (昭和の森会館), then get off at the Joren-no-Taki (浄蓮の滝) bus stop. From there, it is a 3-minute walk to the falls. 

Koto – Kyoto (京都)

Yasaka Shrine, the location in the novel Koto, where Chieko has a chance encounter with her sister, Naeko. (Image credit: Adobe Stock)

Against the enchanting backdrop of Kyoto (京都), Kawabata Yasunari's Koto (古都 The Old Capital), serialized in the Asahi Shimbun from 1961, narrates the intertwined destinies of Chieko, the adopted daughter of a kimono wholesaler in Kyoto, and her twin sister Naeko, who resides in the village of Kitayamasugi.

Yasaka Shrine 

Abandoned as a child, Chieko was adopted by a married couple who worked at a kimono wholesaler in Muromachi (室町), which is renowned for its affluent kimono establishments, and retains traces of its textile-related businesses along Muromachi-dori Street (室町通) even now. 

Located at the heart of Kyoto, the intersection known as Shijo Muromachi (四条室町) holds significance as the primary site for crafting floats utilized in the Gion Festival (祇園祭). The festival's portrayal in the novel becomes a pivotal moment as Chieko stumbles upon the existence of her twin sister during a fateful encounter at Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社).

Kitasugiyama Village

A walking path behind the quaint village of Kitasugiyama in the northern stretches of Kyoto. (Image credit: PhotoAC)

On the other hand, the village of Kitayamasugi, Naeko's residence and where she worked processing felled cedar trees, retains the atmosphere of a quaint village despite the substantial 1,230 households residing in the area. With fewer than 100 houses currently, the village still preserving its name to this day, with the surrounding forest boasting impeccably groomed cedar trees that emanate a timeless allure with their majestic, upright stature, as if freezing time in the ancient village of Kitayamasugi.

Vividly portraying Kyoto across the seasons and offering glimpses of the city's diverse facets, including its vibrant traditional festivals, the novel captures the evolving landscape of post-war Japan, where traditional trades are gradually waning as modern business methods gain prominence, leaving artisans grappling to secure and mentor successors. Exploring these settings not only immerses readers in the narrative but also affords them a peek into the grandeur of Kyoto's illustrious past as the ancient capital.

Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社)
Address: 625 Gionmachi Kitagawa, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto, 605-0073
Access: 12-minute walk from Kyoto Kawaramachi Station (京都河原町駅)

Kitayamasugi no Sato (北山杉の里)
Address: 74 Nakagawakawanobori, Kita Ward, Kyoto, 601-0125
Access: From Kyoto Station (京都駅), take a bus and alight at Kitayamaseikyozen (北山生協前) bus stop. From there, it is a 1-minute walk to the village. 

Returning to Kawabata’s Roots – Osaka (大阪)

Kawabata Yasunari Literature Museum, honouring the literary achievements of the renowned writer, located in Ibaraki City, Osaka. (Image credit: Photo Library)

Kawabata’s hometown of Ibaraki City, where he spent his formative years is not only widely recognised as his birthplace, but also where he first discovered his passion and flair for writing. In 1985, the Kawabata Yasunari Literature Museum (川端康成文学館) was established to pay tribute to and honour the achievements of the acclaimed writer. 

The museum houses around 400 items belonging to Kawabata, including his books, letters, manuscripts, ink calligraphy, and even a replica of the house in Shukunosho where he resided with his grandparents. It also showcases artifacts from Kawabata's early life and high school years, serving as an educational resource for the community to familiarize themselves with his literary works. 

Additionally, visitors can explore various sections dedicated to the settings of his works, including a replicated "Writer's Study" corner modeled after Kawabata's study in Kamakura (鎌倉).

To honour Kawabata's birthday (14 June 1899), the museum hosts an annual special exhibition dedicated to Kawabata and his literary works every June. Occasionally, the museum also offers visitors a chance to delve into Kawabata’s literature and explore courses on modern and contemporary literature for an additional fee. For enthusiasts of Kawabata's work, this place is a must-visit for a closer look into Kawabata’s literary world through his origins.

Kawabata Yasunari Literature Museum (川端康成文学館)
Address: 2-11-25 Kamichujo, Ibaraki, Osaka 567-0881
Access: From Ibaraki Station (茨木駅), take a bus and alight at Ibaraki Shiyakushomae (茨木市役所前) bus stop. From there, it is a 10-minute walk to the museum. 

Thank you, Kawabata-san

Celebrated for his profound and pristine perspective, Kawabata Yasunari inherits the legacy of Japanese aesthetics, portraying the realm of ancient Japanese beauty and melancholy, along with the nuances of Japanese sensibilities. By visiting the iconic spots in his timeless works, prepare to be inspired and captivated, as you explore the rich tapestry of Japanese culture and the universal truths of the human experience through the eyes of Kawabata Yasunari.