Why I travel by rail: The sights, sounds, and tastes (Part 1)
Relaxing hot spring baths, fantastic views of mountains and oceans beyond the window, and your very own stove on which you can grill snacks to have with your tipple. Going by this line alone, these are what you might expect to find at a top-rated ryokan—on the contrary, though, these are but a few of the things one can find both on trains and at train stations, and they are the part of the draw of train travel for travellers visiting Japan. They definitely are for me, and for you as well, dear reader of JR Times, as well as millions of others visiting Japan—with tourist arrivals increasing by more than threefold from under 9 million in 2010 to almost 32 million in 2019, there are many sightseers who arrive in Japan with a list of tourist spots they want to visit, ranging the gamut from the well-known to those off the beaten (railway?) track.
Thanks to Japan’s extensive and well-maintained rail network, as well as a myriad of passes offered to travellers both local and foreign, rail travel is one of the main ways tourists travel around the country. Having taken almost all of the JR lines and a good deal of the private/third-sector ones in Eastern Japan, as well as having done multiple rail trips in Hokkaido (including one looping the entire island and spanning nearly two weeks when I was a student), there are many reasons why I enjoy rail travel in Japan, and hopefully the seven I will be laying out in this article will resonate with you!
1. The scenery
Clockwise, from upper-left: views from the JR Gonō Line (the inland section), the Sanriku Railway Rias Line, the JR Ban’etsu-West Line, and the JR Senmō Main Line. (Image credit: Kevin Koh)
Mention “Japan” and “scenery” in the same breath, and most people would immediately think of a few images—a snow-capped Mount Fuji, cherry blossoms swaying in a gentle spring breeze, mountainsides aflame in crimson and gold in autumn. While such scenes are definitely poetic, they are certainly not all that Japan has to offer—there are many train lines that run along the coasts of Japan, providing travellers with fantastic views of the Sea of Japan or the Pacific Ocean. Some of my favourite memories of train rides in Japan are along such lines, for instance the JR Gonō (五能線) and Hachinohe (八戸線) Lines, as well as the Sanriku Railway Rias Line (三陸鉄道リアス線).
The seasons in Japan also contribute their beauty to the scenery, meaning that the same line presents a different face each time we travel on it—the last time I took the JR Gonō line in June 2017, the train passed through orchards and orchards of apple trees in full bloom. Imagining what it would be like in autumn, with the branches heavy with red apples, made me want to experience the same section again during the harvesting season in October.
Likewise, the JR Ban’etsu-West Line (磐越西線 Ban’etsu-saisen) presented me with an image of freshly planted paddy fields against the blue sky in early summer, while in winter that was replaced with the black-and-white of snow-capped mountains and fields, not unlike an ink wash painting. Being able to see different scenes on the same line is one reason why I like train travel, as every glimpse out of the window presents me with a fleeting image of the present, clothed in the fabric of the seasons.
2. The stations
Kizukuri Station on the JR Gonō Line. (Image credit: 丸岡ジョー / photoAC)
It is not just the scenery that is interesting, but the stations themselves as well. Most of us would think of stations as just places where one waits for, boards and alights from trains—there are plenty of stations in Japan, though, that boast their own charm and are far more than just a shed with benches to sit on while waiting.
Some stations have interesting exteriors—the exterior of Kizukuri Station (木造駅) on the JR Gonō Line, for instance, is plastered with a huge replica of a haniwa (埴輪), a clay figure that was buried with the dead during the Kofun period (3–6AD) (古墳時代 Kofun-jidai) in Japan, with many such haniwa being excavated from the Kamegaoka Heritage site (亀ヶ岡石器時代遺跡 Kamegaoka-sekki-jidai-iseki) to the north of the station. The haniwa underwent repairs for half a year from September 2019 and its eyes, which used to light up when trains were approaching the station, have now been restored—such is its appeal that there have been accounts of people going all the way there solely to take photographs of the figure with its flashing eyes!
Yunokami-Onsen Station on the Aizu Railway Aizu Line. (Image credit: Kevin Koh)
For something more subdued, there are currently two stations in Japan with traditional thatched kayabuki roofs (茅葺き屋根 kayabuki-yane), similar to the houses one sees in the famed UNESCO Heritage Site Shirakawa-gō (白川郷). Yunokami-Onsen Station (湯野上温泉駅) on the Aizu Railway Aizu Line (会津鉄道会津線) is the older of the two (the other being Bungo-Nakamura Station (豊後中村駅) on the JR Kyūdai Main Line (久大本線, Kyūdai-honsen) in Kyushu), the current station building with the kayabuki roof completed in 1987. With its rustic charm, the kayabuki roofing and the traditional stove (囲炉裏 irori) kept alight within lend an air of nostalgia to the place, almost as if one were stepping into a time gone by.
In addition, being atop the Ring of Fire, Japan is a land rich in onsen (温泉, hot springs). Such baths can be found not only at hotels, but at certain stations as well, for instance Takahata Station (高畠駅) on the JR Oū Main Line (奥羽本線 Oū-honsen) between Fukushima (福島駅) and Yamagata (山形駅) Stations, and Hotto-Yuda Station (ほっとゆだ駅) on the JR Kitakami Line (北上線) that connects Kitakami Station (北上駅) in Iwate (岩手県 Iwate-ken) with Yokote Station (横手駅) in Akita (秋田県 Akita-ken). The latter even has a traffic light signalling system within the baths to let guests know how much time they have left before the next train comes!
For those of you reluctant to take a full-body dip in an onsen, there are also many stations that feature foot baths (足湯 ashiyu) where one can sit and soak one’s feet in hot spring water after walking or just to relax while waiting for your next train. Mashū (摩周駅) and Kawayu Onsen (川湯温泉駅) Stations, both on the JR Senmō Main Line (釧網本線 Senmō-honsen) connecting Kushiro (釧路駅) and Abashiri (網走駅) Stations in Hokkaido, both have such ashiyu, and the former even has a spot where you can drink the hot spring water straight from the source, said to be good at curing internal ailments!
3. The trains
Grilling squid atop the stove in Tsugaru Railway’s stove train. (Image credit: Ray Chang / CC BY-NC-ND 2.0)
Given how the scenery and stations are captivating, it should therefore come as no surprise, then, that the trains themselves are also one of the major draws for rail travel in Japan. Much has been written elsewhere about how punctual Japanese trains are, and how the shinkansen (新幹線) offer an enjoyable ride to one’s destination—apart from the shinkansen, there are many other trains that offer a wide range of experiences, some of them themed.
Such trains are also known as sightseeing trains in Japan, and all of the JR companies have their own names for these sightseeing trains—JR East, for instance, calls them “Joyful Trains”, while JR Kyushu calls them “D&S Trains”. Arguably, one of the most well-known Joyful Trains would be the “POKÉMON with YOU Train” that runs on the JR Ōfunato Line (大船渡線) between Ichinoseki (一ノ関駅) and Kesennuma (気仙沼駅) Stations on weekends and holidays—with its Pikachu-themed playroom, as well as activities like a stamp rally to complete in exchange for a limited-edition paper craft, this bright and cheery train is guaranteed to put a smile on those who board it!
From left: an image of one of the Resort Shirakami trains, and an image of one of the local trains on the JR Gonō Line. (Image credit: Kevin Koh)
While the while the “POKÉMON with YOU” train is geared towards a younger audience (or for those young at heart!), another Joyful Train that boasts a sizeable fanbase is the Resort Shirakami (リゾートしらかみ) plying the JR Gonō Line, giving travellers a more traditional experience, with live Tsugaru shamisen (津軽三味線) performances and storytellers reciting local folklore in the Tsugaru dialect. One of the Resort Shirakami trains even comes with a bar counter that sells souvenirs and delicacies from various places along the line, including local sake, allowing travellers to experience Akita and Aomori (青森県, Aomori-ken) with all their senses.
The non-JR private sector also boasts a few interesting trains of their own—Tsugaru Railway (津軽鉄道), that connects Goshōgawara (五所川原駅) and Tsugaru-Nakasato (津軽中里駅) Stations in Aomori, has a stove train (ストーブ列車 sutо̄bu-ressha) that is coupled to regular trains in winter; for a small fee, one can board the carriage that has an old-fashioned coal-fired stove (ダルマストーブ daruma-sutо̄bu) in it, and enjoy the train as people used to do in the past. Dried squid can even be purchased to grill on the stove, guaranteed to make this an unforgettable experience!
Sanriku Railway has a kotatsu (コタツ) train that runs in winter, where travellers can listen to attendants introduce sightseeing spots along the line through paper theatre, be surprised by namomi (なもみ), Japanese ogres said to inhabit the coastal side of northern Iwate, and enjoy deluxe seafood ekiben. A kotatsu is a low table with an electric heater and covered with a blanket, and can be found in Japanese houses in the colder seasons; you will certainly feel as if you were at home while you enjoy the quintessential winter treat of mikan (みかん), Japanese tangerines, with your body being warmed up by the kotatsu!
Local trains meeting at JR Otoineppu Station on the Sōya Main Line. I was in the one waiting at the platform for a total of six hours all the way to Wakkanai Station! (Image credit: Kevin Koh)
While such Joyful Trains are a joy to ride (pun intended), there is also much to be said about taking single-carriage local trains that ply the same lines. They may not have the plush interiors or the various facilities the shinkansen and Joyful Trains have to offer, but they more than make up for it with their old-school charm and nostalgia, especially the trains that were made before the Japanese National Railways got privatised to form Japan Railways, or JR. Having taken local trains for the whole length of the JR Sōya Main Line (宗谷本線 Sōya-honsen) from Asahikawa (旭川駅) to Wakkanai (稚内駅) Stations, the JR Gonō Line from Higashi-Noshiro (東能代駅) to Hirosaki (弘前駅) Stations, and the JR Ban’etsu-West Line from Aizu-Wakamatsu (会津若松駅) to Niigata (新潟駅) Stations, just to name a few, I can say that the slow journey is itself a draw, something that we are normally unable to experience in the hustle and bustle of everyday life, and that it was refreshing to enjoy being in the same train carriage and viewing the changes in scenery over the four to five hours the journey took.
4. The ekiben
A selection of ekiben. Clockwise, from upper-left: Hinai-jidori torimeshi (JR Ōdate Station), gyū-shigure-zushi (JR Takayama Station), butadon (JR Mashū Station), hon-maguro gozen (JR Shin-Aomori Station). (Image credit: Kevin Koh)
One cannot talk about train travel in Japan without mentioning ekiben (駅弁)—these boxes filled with rice and various meats and seafood are one of the most quintessential travel companions for a Japanese train ride, and one is spoilt for choice when presented with the kaleidoscope of options available at major train stations, making it hard to pick just one!
In addition to the standard makunouchi (幕の内弁当 makunouchi-bentō) ekiben that feature a wide variety of dishes—some simmered, some grilled, some fried—there is also a wide range of ekiben that showcase local specialities. The uni bentō (うに弁当) at Sanriku Railway’s Kuji Station (久慈駅), for instance, pays homage to the ama divers (海女) of the region (often called the Northernmost Ama (北限の海女 Hokugen no ama)) with a copious amount of steamed uni laid atop rice cooked in the juices left from steaming the sea urchin. Likewise, the hon-maguro gozen (本まぐろ御膳) that can be purchased at major stations in Aomori, including Shin-Aomori Station (新青森駅), features Aomori-caught tuna served atop branded Seiten-no-Hekireki (青天の霹靂) rice in five different ways: marinated in soy sauce, seasoned flakes, steak, seared a la tataki, and negitoro (ネギトロ).
Ekiben are, by far and large, meant to be consumed at room temperature, but fresh ones are a treat in themselves. Poppotei (ぽっぽ亭), a restaurant in front of JR Mashū Station, serves a piping hot butadon (豚丼) that is made upon order—the charcoal-grilled pork, combined with the sweet-salty sauce brushed atop and fluffy white rice below, is good when cold, but fantastic when warm, the savoury meat juices and fat melting into the rice. Likewise, the kanimeshi (かにめし) sold at JR Abashiri Station is freshly prepared on-site, the lightly seasoned crabmeat the perfect pairing to the rice below cooked in a savoury broth, the natural sweetness of the crab shining through with every bite.
The author’s favourite ekiben: Nori noriben (JR Kōriyama Station). (Image credit: Kevin Koh)
Enjoying an ekiben while gazing at the scenery beyond the train windows is one of my favourite things about travelling on trains, and it definitely adds to the train travel experience by allowing one to enjoy local delicacies while en route to the next destination.
Closing
The food, the scenery, the stations, as well as the trains themselves—these are all reasons why rail travel in Japan is so appealing. Indeed, the kaleidoscope of experiences one can partake in while on a train allows one to enjoy various things simultaneously, which makes rail travel a fascinating part of any trip to Japan, so much so that most of my holidays to Japan revolve around taking trains to places both familiar and new! However, that is not all there is to travelling by train—stay tuned for Part 2, in which I explore a few other reasons why I personally enjoy rail travel!
Header image credit: Kevin Koh
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