Oma-gad! Japan’s best tuna: Oma and the Shimokita Peninsula
For Singaporeans, the most well-known fish consumed as sashimi and sushi are probably salmon and tuna. Tuna can be caught in many places around Japan, but the wild Pacific Bluefin tuna (本マグロ hon-maguro) from the town of Oma (大間 Ōma) in the Shimokita Peninsula (下北半島 Shimokita hantō) is *the* pinnacle of Japanese tuna, with an excellent balance of quality flesh and a good amount of fat. Those ridiculously expensive tuna auctioned at Tsukiji Market that fetch the highest prices? More often than not, they're Oma Tuna (大間マグロ Ōma maguro).
What makes Oma Tuna so special?
Oma Tuna is a brand, and the fish have to meet certain requirements and be certified in order to carry this prestigious name. Having seen photos of the mouthwatering Oma Tuna rice bowls, I had been wanting to try this for the longest time. And what better place to try it than at the source—the little town of Oma!
So where is Oma? Cape Oma (大間崎 Ōmazaki) is the northernmost point of mainland Japan, located on the Shimokita Peninsula in Aomori Prefecture. On clear days, you can even see the city of Hakodate in Hokkaido across the Tsugaru Strait! The waters of the Tsugaru Strait are the perfect place for Bluefin tuna to flourish.
Map of Oma's location. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
The Tsugaru Strait is a body of water connecting the Sea of Japan with the Pacific Ocean, which separates mainland Japan and the northern island of Hokkaido. Cold and warm currents mix to create conducive conditions for fish to thrive, making this area abundant in top-quality, delicious seafood all year round.
The monument marking the northernmost tip of mainland Japan (left) and the Oma’s famous ipponzuri tuna monument (right). (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
Oma Tuna are on average 150kg, although large ones can weigh over 300–400kg. The best time to enjoy Oma Tuna is during the cold season, from August to January. Although you can still enjoy eating it the rest of the year, it will be thawed frozen tuna. Since December was the perfect season, last winter I decided to make a trip to Oma to try its famous tuna.
Omazaki’s Visitors’ Centre (left) and bus schedule (right). (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
Due to its northern location, snowfall in the Shimokita Peninsula is high, and public transport during winter is infrequent. However, you will be glad to know that limited trains and buses still run during winter, and some of the restaurants are still open.
To get to Oma, first make your way to Mutsu Bus Terminal (10-minute bus ride from JR Shimokita Station, or 20-minute bus ride from JR Ōminato Station). At Mutsu Bus Terminal, change to a bus bound for Sai, and get off at the Omazaki bus stop (90-minute ride, ~¥2,000 fare, timetable). Around the bus stop, there is a small Visitors’ Centre (closed during winter) with public toilets, as well as a handful of souvenir shops. The town’s symbolic monuments are also a few steps from the bus stop.
Eating Oma Tuna in Oma
Oomanzoku restaurant's exterior. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
Many of the restaurants in Oma are run by local fishermen and their families. After looking up which ones were open, I settled for Oomanzoku (大間んぞく Ōmanzoku). Its name is a play on the words 大間 (Ōma) and 大満足 (great satisfaction). Indeed, my meal here left me greatly satisfied! The restaurant is a 2-minute walk from the Omazaki bus stop.
Sanshoku Maguro Don set. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
Even before arriving, I knew what I would be having—the signature Sanshoku Maguro Don (三色マグロ丼 three-coloured tuna bowl). The Sanshoku Maguro Don lets you try three types of tuna meat: the melt-in-your-mouth delicious ōtoro (大トロ fatty tuna belly), chūtoro (中トロ medium-fatty tuna) and akami (赤身 lean tuna flesh). Words cannot describe how good this was!
Fresh, delectable tuna (left) and octopus sashimi (right). (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
The fatty tuna belly is the most expensive cut, so you only get two slices of it, compared with four slices each of the chūtoro and akami. However, as ōtoro is very rich, two slices was just the right amount. It is like the wagyu of fish, deliciously marbled, soft and rich, but tuna instead of beef.
Many people think of the fatty tuna belly when Oma Tuna is mentioned, but most fishermen will tell you that the best part is the akami – the lean red meat. Oma Tuna need to swim against the current to get to warm waters, resulting in a very special quality of lean flesh that cannot be found in other brands of tuna.
The ¥3,400 set also comes with miso soup, refillable hot green tea, and sides of what I think were pickled vegetables and squid legs. I also ordered some octopus sashimi. The restaurant also has a simplified English menu for foreign visitors.
Images of Oomanzoku’s high-auctioning tuna and Oma Tuna labels decorating the restaurant. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
The restaurant is run by the Takeuchi family. Both father and son have caught high-auctioning tuna—the father in 2001 with a 202kg fish selling for ¥20.2m at Tsukiji Market’s first auction of the year, and the son in 2013 with a 220kg fish selling for ¥155.4m at Tsukiji Market’s first auction of the year.
Depending on the catch on hand, Oomanzoku also does tuna carving shows (マグロ解体 maguro kaitai) from time to time, which they will announce on their Facebook page. The shows are open to the public, so you can check them out if you happen to be around.
Oomanzoku (大間んぞく)
Address: 17-377 Omataira, Oma-machi, Oma, Shimokita-gun, Aomori 039-4601
Access: From Mutsu Bus Terminal, take a 90-minute bus ride to the Omazaki Bus Stop. The restaurant is a 2-minute walk from the bus stop.
Opening hours: 8:00–18:00
Tel: +81-175-37-5633
Oma's Ipponzuri fishing method
Ipponzuri monument at Cape Oma. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
Something amazing I learnt about tuna fishing in Oma is the ipponzuri fishing method (一本釣り single-hook hand-line fishing). Even the town’s famous monument carries the words "まぐろ一本釣りの町 おおま", which means "The town that catches tuna with single-hook hand-line fishing, Oma". Ipponzuri is a traditional fishing method in which 2mm-diameter fishing lines are used to catch the gigantic tuna. The line method causes less stress to fish, and allows for the capture of tuna without injuring them, so that their flavor and texture can be kept in a good and fresh condition. Due to the difficulty in catching them, Oma Tuna is also known as "black diamonds".
Other than the tuna, you can also visit the Shimokita Peninsula for other things! The Shimokita Peninsula makes a relaxing getaway off the beaten track. Cape Shiriya’s Kandachime Horses and Shimofuro Onsen Village were two things that I wanted to visit, but unfortunately could not fit into my itinerary due to winter operating hours, short daylight hours and lack of public transport.
Kandachime Horses
- 60-minute bus ride from Mutsu Bus Terminal, on the bus bound for Shiriya (timetable).
Kandachime horses grazing in winter. (Image credit: 青森県観光連盟)
Cape Shiriya (尻屋崎 Shiriyazaki) is well-known for its Kandachime horses (寒立馬 Kandachime), a very sturdy breed of wild horses known for its resilience and ability to withstand the cold northern winters. The name Kandachime literally means "horses that stand in the cold", and these horses roam freely outside, even during winter. Unfortunately, during winter you cannot get up close to them.
Kandachime horses in summer, with Shiriyazaki Lighthouse in the background. (Image credit: 青森県観光連盟)
While they cannot be visited by the public in winter, from April to November you can catch them grazing and galloping around the cape. Characterised by short legs and a stocky body, the Kandachime horses are very calm and gentle, sometimes even posing with visitors for photos! However, as they are wild animals, please always take caution when approaching them.
Also at Cape Shiriya is the Shiriyazaki Lighthouse, which became the first electric lighthouse in Japan when an electric generator was installed in 1901.
Shimofuro Onsen Village
- 70-minute bus ride from Mutsu Bus Terminal, on the bus bound for Sai (timetable).
Shimofuro Onsen Village. (Image credit: 青森県観光連盟)
Shimofuro Onsen Village (下風呂温泉郷 Shimofuro onsenkyō) has mainland Japan's northernmost onsen, and faces the Tsugaru Strait. Being close to the sea, you can also enjoy fresh and delicious seafood for dinner when you stay at one of the ryokan. Here is the list of nine accommodations in the area, which are a mix of ryokan, minshuku and hotel. A small onsen town, many of the accommodations are family-run, which give them a homey and comfortable feel.
Resort Asunaro Joyful Train
The Resort Asunaro Joyful Train and the cute decorations at Ominato Station. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
The Resort Asunaro is a Joyful Train that runs between Hachinohe and Ominato. If you are lucky, you might be able to catch it on your trip to the Shimokita Peninsula. The Resort Asunaro is a comfortable hybrid-diesel train with spacious seats, and you can enjoy the passing scenery from the large windows.
Getting there
To get to the Shimokita Peninsula, take the bullet train from JR Tōkyō Station (東京駅) to JR Hachinohe Station (八戸駅). At Hachinohe Station, transfer to the Aoimori Railway Line and continue towards Ōminato Station (大湊駅). Depending on the schedule, there might be direct trains from Hachinohe Station to Ōminato Station, or you might need to transfer at Noheji Station (野辺地駅). All of these train lines and transfers are covered by the JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area).
JR Shimokita Station in winter. (Image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh)
From Mutsu Bus Terminal in Shimokita, you can take buses to the various sightseeing spots around the peninsula. The nearest train station to Mutsu Bus Terminal is JR Shimokita Station (下北駅), which is a 10-minute bus ride away. Alternatively, JR Ōminato Station is a 20-minute bus ride from the bus terminal. Most buses that go around the peninsula’s sightseeing spots depart from Mutsu Bus Terminal, although some buses do continue to/from Shimokita Station. The buses are operated by Shimokita Kotsu, and are not covered by the rail pass. However, the JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area) does cover the JR bus between JR Ōminato Station and Mutsu Bus Terminal.
JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area)
The new JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area) and usage area. (Image credit: JR East)
If you are visiting Oma and exploring the Shimokita Peninsula, check out the JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area), an affordable pass offering unlimited rail travel on JR East lines (including bullet trains) in the valid area for 5 consecutive days. At only ¥30,000, it costs less than a round-trip between Tokyo and Shimokita (~¥37,000). The Aoimori Line between Noheji Station and Ōminato Station / Shimokita Station is also covered by this rail pass. You can also make seat reservations for bullet trains, some limited express trains and Joyful Trains online for free, up to 1 month in advance, JR-EAST Train Reservation.
The JR-EAST Train Reservation. (Image credit: JR East)
The JR EAST PASS (Tohoku area) can be used for automatic ticket gates, and foreign passport holders living in Japan are also eligible to use this pass.
Header image credit: JR East / Carissa Loh
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