A journey of discovery: Shiga-t feelings for me? (Part 2)
In my previous article about Shiga Prefecture (滋賀県 Shiga-ken), I talked about what (or rather, who) brought me to Shiga, and my travels around the western region of the prefecture. In Part 2, I will be covering the rest of Shiga’s eastern region—from castle towns, to stopping by one of Japan’s 5 highways (五街道 Gokaido), to a school featured in a popular anime—the adventure continues! Alas, will the question “does Shiga-t feelings for me?” finally be answered!?
Across history and time
Lord of Hikone: Ii Naomasa (Image credit: John Ong)
In the past, there was this saying; “He who conquers Omi (Shiga), conquers Japan (近江を制する者は天下を制する).” Two of Japan’s five highways—the Nakasendo (中山道) and Tokaido (東海道)—cuts through the prefecture, and eastern Shiga is the site of many castles, destroyed or preserved, and the towns that flourished around it. One of such towns is Hikone (彦根). Located along the Nakasendo, Hikone served as an important hub for inland travellers on their way to Kyoto. With traditional shophouses reminiscent of Edo-period architecture, Hikone is the very definition of a castle town.
They call the night scenery one of the eight views of Biwako. (Image credit: John Ong)
(Image credit: John Ong)
(Image credit: John Ong)
At the centre of this beautiful town stands Hikone’s main hallmark—Hikone Castle (彦根城 Hikone-jo). Since its completion in 1622, Hikone Castle has remained mostly untouched, surviving till this day as one of Japan’s 12 original-construction castles. Walking around the castle reveals its many intricacies and gardens, such as the Genkyu-en Garden (玄宮園) where one can get an Instagram-worthy shot of Hikone Castle while sipping some refreshing tea, and the main castle mast (天守閣 Tenshukaku), where one can get a stunning view of Hikone and Biwako. It is designated as a national treasure, and only three other castles in Japan share this prestigious title! Can you guess them all?*
Hikone’s mascot—Hikonyan! (Image credit: John Ong)
Hikone Castle (彦根城)
Address: 1-1 Konki-cho, Hikone, Shiga 522-0061
Nearest train station: JR Hikone Station (JR彦根駅)
Opening hours: 08:30–17:00
Admission fee: ¥800 (Castle and Garden), ¥1,200 (Castle, Garden and Museum)
Tel: +81-749-22-2742
An experience unlike any other
Aaaaaaaaaaaaand it’s gone. (Image credit: John Ong)
After exploring Hikone Castle, I came across a small establishment called Hayano Shokudo (はやの食堂). Run by a small Japanese family, this place sells some pretty good Japanese food for a very competitive price. I tried their recommendation; oyakodon (親子丼 chicken-and-egg bowl) and it's one of the best I’ve had so far. The savoury egg omelette topped off with juicy chunks of chicken are some of the most enjoyable meals I had throughout my journey.
First-class cuisine it says. I sure think so. (Image credit: John Ong)
The family that runs the place are also a friendly lot, elevating and personalizing the dining experience. Talk to them about anything, they will be more than happy to share! You’ve got to love hidden gems like these—warm and personable hospitality that satisfies both your tummy and soul.
Hayano Shokudo (はやの食堂)
Address: 7-11 Sawa-cho, Hikone, Shiga 522-0075
Nearest train station: JR Hikone Station (JR彦根駅)
Opening hours: 12:00–19:30
Meal pricing: ~¥1,000
Tel: +81-749-22-2190
An unexpected discovery
My next destination was a place I never planned to visit. After transferring to a local train operated by Omi Railway (近江鉄道 Omi-tetsudo), I unknowingly fell asleep enroute to my initial destination, and ended up at a station called Taga Taisha-mae Station (多賀大社前駅).
“I should just wait for the next train,” I thought to myself at that moment. But with the next train being an hour away, I wasn’t going to sit idly by. Fortunately for me, there was a community house beside the station, and after speaking to some friendly locals, I was introduced to Taga Taisha (多賀大社 Taga Shrine), which the station is conveniently named after.
(Image credit: John Ong)
What I learned from the locals was that Taga Taisha, or O-taga-san (お多賀さん), isn’t just old, it is ancient. The completion of this shrine dates back to the Nara Period (奈良時代 Nara-jidai), and was mentioned in the Kojiki (古事記)—the oldest recorded text in Japan. Taga Taisha blends both Buddhist and Shinto elements into its design, and is devoted to Izanagi-no-ookami (伊邪那岐大神) and Izanami-no-ookami (伊邪那美大神)—the Shinto God and Goddess of longevity and relationships. Maybe now I know why I was led here. Have the gods found out about my true purpose of coming to Shiga!?
Aesthetically serene. (Image credit: John Ong)
Itokiri-mochi. (Image credit: Shiga Tourism Official Website)
Being just a 10-minute walk from the station, Taga Taisha is hard to miss. Just follow the huge Torii gate in front of the station. The walk will take you by many shophouses selling souvenirs and items unique to the area. One of these is a snack called Itokiri-mochi (糸切餅)—a mochi dedicated to the Japanese victory over the Mongols.
Taga Shrine (多賀大社)
Address: 604 Taga, Inukami-gun, Shiga 522-0341
Nearest train station: Taga Taisha-mae Station (多賀大社前駅)
Opening hours: 24 hours
Admission fee: Free
Tel: +81-749-48-1101
The Middle Way, bridging past and present
(Image credit: John Ong)
Arriving at Maibara Station (米原駅), I dropped by a local bicycle rental shop and rented a bicycle for the whole day. There is only one shop at the station offering such service; called “Biwaichi Rental Cycle (びわこ一周レンタサイクル)”. It is a humble shop opened by Shiga-natives and their owners are more than happy to share their personal recommendations in Shiga. With transportation for the day settled, clear skies ushering new prospects for adventure, I set forth into the horizon.
Came back with a pretty bad sunburn (Image credit: John Ong)
(Image credit: John Ong)
Following portions of National Route 21 and the less-traveled historic routes, this bicycle ride was really an exhilarating experience. Greeted by the usual scenery common across the Japanese countryside at all sides, it can simply be a field day for travellers! I was trying my best not to get too distracted, less I would be stopping too often for a quick photo.
(Image credit: John Ong)
Within an hour, I arrived at a small village called Samegai (醒ヶ井). A village seemingly blended with nature, Samegai served as one of Nakasendo’s many checkpoints during the Edo Period (1603–1868). While those days have long passed, many of the shophouses and trading posts that line up on the old highway live on till this day, selling sweets and crafts that reminisce of its ancient lineage.
(Image credit: John Ong)
(Image credit: John Ong)
Flowing directly through Samegai is the Jizogawa River (地蔵川), a clear water river famous for staying 14ºC throughout the year and a species of flower native to Japan: Baikamo (梅花藻 water buttercup). For travellers wanting to take some shots of the local scenery, psst, go where the locals go, let them guide your way.
I ordered the recommended, “Ichigo Milk Kakigōri”! (Image credit: John Ong)
To beat the summer heat that plagues late-July Japan, I stopped by a local cafe specializing in kakigōri (かき氷 Shaved ice) called “Tachi-Ki (たち李)”. From the looks of it, you can already tell that effort and heart had been put into preparing this mouthwatering dessert.
From a wide selection of flavours, ranging from Matcha (抹茶) topped with azuki (小豆 red bean), to their highly recommended “Ichigo Milk”, shave off that heat! Your body will love you for that *wink wink*. Ice-kachang fans, this is for you!
(Image credit: John Ong)
The interior of the cafe blends elements of Edo and Pre-war era Japan, invoking a certain Je-ne-sais-quoi (i.e. something that attracts you, but you do not know exactly what it is), within this humble village.
Biwaichi Rental Cycle (びわこ一周レンタサイクル)
Address: JR Maibara Station East Gate 1F, 413-1, Maibara, Shiga 521-0012
Nearest train station: JR Maibara Station (JR米原駅)
Opening hours: 09:00–17:00
Rental fee: Varies
Tel: +81-90-3863-8453
Tachi-Ki (たち李)
Address: 380 Samegai, Maibara, Shiga 521-0035
Nearest train station: JR Samegai Station (JR醒ヶ井駅)
Opening hours: 10:00–18:00 (Closed on Wednesdays)
Meal Pricing: ~¥1,000
Tel: +81-749-56-0664
A mix of Anime and Fireworks
(Image credit: John Ong)
On the surface, Toyosato (豊郷町 Toyosato-cho) might seem like just another Japanese town. However, any anime fan will know that this town is much more than that. Any K-ON! (けいおん！) fans out there? Because this one's for you! For those who are new, K-ON! is an anime about a high school light music club (軽音部 Kei-on-bu) made by the renown Kyoto Animation.
(Image credit: John Ong)
Arriving at the town, one will be greeted by a town that has incorporated the anime into its landscape. This can be seen from anime posters plastered on Edo-era shophouses to the numerous anime character “children crossing” warnings around the town. It will feel almost like magic, as though you are already in the anime itself.
(Image credit: John Ong)
Following these children crossing warnings will bring you to the Old Toyosato Elementary School Building (豊郷小学校旧校舎群). Built in 1937, the building was used as the basis for the fictional Sakuragaoka High School—the school where the main characters of the anime go to.
(Image credit: John Ong)
From the rabbit and tortoise stairway, to the corridors and classrooms, everything has been faithfully recreated in the anime. The room used by the club in the anime has also been brought to life, with props in place, and a board with drawings from fans who have graced this iconic room. As a fan of K-ON myself, I had to leave my mark!
Almost looks real (Image credit: John Ong)
For those wondering, it’s not US9.5 (Image credit: John Ong)
Singapore fans represent. (Image credit: John Ong)
Many associate Japan with anime, and it is undeniable that anime is slowly becoming one of the reasons people travel to Japan. To visit places featured in animes is known as Anime-tourism, or seichi-junrei (聖地巡礼 pilgrimage). So anime fans, the next time you find yourself in Shiga, do give Toyosato a visit. No regrets, I promise.
Toyosato Elementary School Old School Building (豊郷小学校旧校舎群)
Address: 522 Ishibatake, Toyosato-cho, Inukami-gun, Shiga 529-1169
Nearest train station: Toyosato Station (豊郷駅)
Opening hours: 09:00–17:00
Admission Fee: Free
Tel: +81-749-35-3737
Added Bonus: Omi Shrine
(Image credit: John Ong)
Fans of Anime, “Chihayafuru (ちはやふる)” can visit Omi Shrine (近江神宮 Omi-jingu) located in Otsu City (大津市 Otsu-shi). Known as the holy land of Karuta (歌留多), the shrine was heavily featured in the anime, and hosts 2 karuta tournaments every year. Omi Shrine is also dedicated to Emperor Tenji (天智天皇 Tenji-tenno), who composed one of the poems used in Karuta.
(Image credit: John Ong)
Omi Shrine (近江神宮)
Address: 1-1 Jingucho, Otsu, Shiga 520-0015
Nearest train station: Omi-jingu-mae Station (近江神宮前駅)
Opening hours: 09:00–16:30 (Worship starts at 06:00)
Admission Fee: Free
Tel: +81-77-522-3275
The answer at journey’s end
Ending it with a bang (Image credit: John Ong)
Okay, I think I have been eluding this till now but I am sure the question on some of your minds is, “So does the Shiga-native have any feelings for you!?” If you think this would be a happy ending like some J/K-Dramas you have watched till now, sorry to burst your bubble. On the second last night of my trip, as the purplish tangerine evening sky slowly dimmed, along the coast of Biwako, we met, I confessed, and was rejected.
Somehow I knew the outcome before the trip, but I still had to hear it for myself. Maybe I just needed that last nail in the coffin to move on. While rejections are sad, no matter which country you travel to, I have no regrets going to Shiga. The adventures I had during my time there are some of my most memorable even to this day.
And like the distant firework off Biwako that same night, this trip has been a blast.
With that, my adventures in Shiga have come to an end. Endings are not permanent, and with every ending, a new beginning. There is still so much I have yet to explore in Shiga, but some good things are worth the wait.
*The three other castles are: Himeji Castle, Matsumoto Castle and Inuyama Castle
Header image credit: John Ong
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