Day trips from Tokyo: Discovering Chofu's temples and the world of Kitaro

As part of my recent quest to explore lesser-known areas of Tokyo (東京), I decided to visit Chofu (調布) alongside my mother as neither of us have visited Chofu before. 

Located just a 20-minute train ride from central Tokyo, Chofu offers a refreshing escape from the bustling city centre. This charming suburb is renowned for its rich cultural heritage, featuring historical temples and shrines that provide a glimpse into Japan's spiritual past. Additionally, Chofu is famous for being the home of GeGeGe no Kitaro (ゲゲゲの鬼太郎), a beloved manga and anime series created by Shigeru Mizuki (しげる 水木). 

With its unique blend of history and pop culture, Chofu makes for an intriguing and delightful day trip destination for those who wish to be in a less-crowded part of Tokyo.

Getting to Chofu Station

(Image credit: Julia Yee)

Getting to Chofu Station (調布駅 Chofu-eki) was a breeze—from Shinjuku Station, we hopped on to the Keio Line (京王線 Keio-sen). It took about 20 minutes on the express service, but the ride was pretty scenic, offering glimpses of Tokyo's hustle and bustle. 

Upon reaching Chofu Station, I was greeted by its captivating design, adorned with motifs inspired by film and cinema. From vintage movie posters to camera-shaped designs, the station's aesthetic pays homage to Japan's rich cinematic history, adding a touch of nostalgia to the travel experience. 

Taking the Central Exit (中央口 Chūō-guchi), you will be met with a sign, welcoming you to Cinema Town Chofu (映画のまち調布 Eiga no machi Chōfu).

Kitaro-dori: A shopping street filled with characters from GeGeGe no Kitaro

We had a lot of fun spotting the main characters from the story! Can you guess which is my favourite character? (Image credit: Julia Yee)

To kick off our day trip in Chofu, I made sure to start by exploring the vibrant atmosphere of Tenjin-dori Shotengai (天神通り商店街), a bustling shopping street located just a 5-minute walk from the station. Once the path leading to Fudaten Shrine, it has now evolved into a hub of around 50 charming small businesses. Locals affectionately call it "Kitaro-dori" due to its transformation adorned with statues depicting beloved characters from GeGeGe no Kitaro. 

As I strolled along the street, I couldn't help but spot these iconic yokai statues, each offering a unique photo opportunity and adding to the street's lively charm. It brought back a wave of nostalgia, and I even surprised myself when I could recall all their names! It's a fantastic spot to immerse yourself in local culture and capture memorable moments.

Fudaten Shrine

(Image credit: Julia Yee)

After soaking in the lively atmosphere of Tenjin-dori, I took a stroll to Fudaten Shrine (布多天神社 Fudaten jinja), just a short walking distance away. This historic shrine boasts a fascinating connection to the supernatural realm, steeped in folklore and pop culture. 

Not only is Fudaten Shrine integral to the mythic origins of Chofu, but it also holds a prominent place in the yokai manga GeGeGe-no-Kitaro. In Shigeru Mizuki's iconic series, Fudaten Shrine is the mythical abode of Kitaro, the beloved protagonist. Mizuki's deep ties to Chofu, where he resided for many years, inspired the setting of Kitaro's home within the shrine's wooded grounds.

(Image credit: Julia Yee)

Additionally, it is where Sugawara no Michizane (菅原 道真), scholar, poet, and politician of the Heian period, was enshrined as the deity, Sukunahikona no Mikoto. As Sugawara no Michizane was born at the hour of the Ox and cherished oxen, when he died, the oxen in the hearse lay motionless on the way to his funeral, and it is said that the spirit of the lord himself chose a place to rest. 

Fudaten Shrine (布多天神社)
Address: 1-8-1 Chofugaoka, Chofu, Tokyo 182-0021
Access: 10-minute walk from Chofu Station

Hello to the Nogawa River! (Image credit: Julia Yee)

After exploring Fudaten Shrine, we decided to head to Jindaiji-dori (深大寺通り) for lunch. It was a pleasant 15-20 minute walk on a warm spring day, perfect for soaking in the charm of Chofu. The journey allowed me to take in the local scenery and quaint streets lined with traditional shops and houses. It was a delightful way to experience more of Chofu’s unique atmosphere before enjoying a delicious meal.

Time for lunch: Soba at Yusui

(Image credit: Julia Yee)

Upon reaching Jindaiji-dori, a charming street in Chofu that leads to Jindaiji Temple, I was all ready to have soba for lunch. The area around the temple has historically been abundant with clean, fresh water, which is essential for making high-quality soba noodles (そば). This has led to the development of a thriving soba-making tradition, and one can see the street lined with numerous soba restaurants. 

I quickly headed to the restaurant I had marked on my Google maps: Yusui (湧水). It is a cosy restaurant housed in a two-storey building. I was directed to the second floor, and I had to remove my shoes as it features a traditional tatami mat room. Once there, we settled in and were soon served a cup of delicious green tea.

(Image credit: Julia Yee)

The menu offers a wide variety of choices, including both hot and cold soba with various toppings. As the weather had started to get rainy, I opted for the chef's recommendation: soba made from 90% buckwheat (the remaining 10% is regular wheat flour), served with prawn tempura and seasonal vegetables. It was an excellent choice! 

Alongside the soba, a small jug of cooking water is served. It's popular to drink this at the end of the meal, and you can even mix in any leftover tsuyu (つゆ dipping sauce) for added flavour. To top off the meal, we tried their unique dessert – yokan (羊羹) made from soba buckwheat. The blend of the soba flavour paired with the sweet red bean paste was a great way to end our meal.

Yusui (湧水)
Address: 5-9-1 Jindaiji Motomachi, Chofu, Tokyo 182-0017
Access: 30-minute walk from the station or a 10-minute bus ride from Chofu Station North Exit Bus Stop. Alight at Jindaiji Temple Entrance bus stop, followed by a 3-minute walk.

Let’s head to Jindaiji Temple

(Image credit: Julia Yee)

After enjoying my delicious lunch at Yusui, I headed towards Jindaiji Temple. Since it was the weekend, the small street leading to the temple was bustling with activity. Numerous quaint shops were open, offering local delights such as dango and packages of soba noodles to cook at home. The lively atmosphere and the tempting aromas from the food stalls added to the charm of my stroll, making the journey to Jindaiji Temple (深大寺) a delightful experience in itself.

(Image credit: Julia Yee)

After exploring the shops nearby, I ventured to Jindaiji Temple, one of Tokyo's oldest Buddhist temples. Founded in the 8th century, it houses Eastern Japan's oldest national treasure—a Buddha statue revered for centuries. As seen just in front of the temple and within the temple grounds, Jindaiji miraculously preserves a verdant woodland grove and natural spring water. Throughout history, it has served as both a sanctuary for peace and prayer and a gathering place for spiritual seekers. 

When visiting Jindaiji Temple, I felt as though time slowed down, allowing for moments of calm reflection away from the hustle from the shops just down a flight of stairs.

Jindaiji Temple (深大寺)
Address: 5-15-1 Jindaiji Motomachi, Chofu, Tokyo 182-0017
Access: 15-minutes bus ride on the Keio Bus bound for Jindaiji from the Central Exit of Chofu Station, followed by a 2-minute walk

Kitaro Chaya & Yokai Gallery: Dive into the world of GeGeGe no Kitaro

Medama Oyaji (目玉おやじ) peering through the window~ (Image credit: Julia Yee)

After visiting Jindaiji Temple, I stopped by Kitaro Chaya (鬼太郎茶屋), a charming cafe and a must-visit for any GeGeGe no Kitaro fan. However, it was bustling with visitors, and I couldn't find a seat to indulge in the themed sweets and dishes inspired by yokai (妖怪 Japanese supernatural entities) characters from the show. 

The cafe also features a nostalgic shop modelled after traditional Japanese corner stores, offering themed products. There is also a tea room which exudes a serene atmosphere reminiscent of Japan's Showa period, inviting patrons to enjoy carefully crafted treats and immerse themselves in the world of yokai folklore. 

The fun is not only limited to the inside of the shop as there were plenty of little easter eggs to spot the characters from the outside!

Kitaro Chaya (鬼太郎茶屋)
Address: 5-12-8 2階 Jindaiji Motomachi, Chofu, Tokyo 182-0017
Access: 15-minutes bus ride on the Keio Bus bound for Jindaiji from the Central Exit of Chofu Station

An unexpected find! Also, did you know the author only had one arm? (Image credit: Julia Yee)

Next to the shop and cafe is the Yokai Gallery, or the Mizuki Manga Onomatopoeia Exhibit (水木漫画のオノマトペ展 Mizuki manga no onomatope-ten), an exhibition space showcasing various yokai from all over Japan. There's a ¥100 entry fee to view original artwork by Shigeru Mizuki and learn about yokai characteristics and their habitats across Japan through figurines. A section also explores Shigeru Mizuki's life and personality. Currently, exhibit descriptions are available only in Japanese.

After a fulfilling day in Chofu, a city in the western suburbs of Tokyo, I boarded the local bus back to the station. While I've seen some of its gems like Jindaiji Temple and the bustling Kitaro Chaya, there's much more to uncover—such as the lush Jindai Botanical Garden or the historic Tenjin Shrine. Chofu offers a serene slice of Tokyo away from its urban rush, a recommendation for any visitor seeking peaceful exploration.

Header image credit: Julia Yee